Garlicky Mushroom and Swiss Chard Manicotti
When I was growing up, the best Sunday suppers were the ones when my grandmother made her special manicotti. She made it just the way my siblings and I liked it: stuffed with lots of ricotta and Parmesan cheese, smothered in a simple tomato sauce with meatballs on the side. (Note that there were no vegetables involved.) Like most picky eaters, we were suspect of any healthy ingredients grown-ups tucked into our pasta dishes, so Nonna’s manicotti was something we could trust.
Forty years later, you could say I’ve done a 180 degree pivot on my attitude towards manicotti. Now, I want less cheese, more veggies, and meat is not required. When I started to adopt a more brain healthy way of eating, I took a long break from making manicotti. The main problem for me? The cheese. The traditional recipe, like many of the stuffed and baked pasta dishes to come bubbling and steaming out of my nonna’s oven, uses a lot of cheese. But due to the strong association of a diet high in saturated fat and the risk of developing Alzheimer’s, eating less cheese is part of a brain-healthy diet. In fact, the MIND diet guidelines recommend consuming no more than 1 ounce of cheese each week. That’s basically two bites. Not very much, and I love cheese!
Creating a lighter, more veggie-packed manicotti
It was difficult for me to reduce my cheese consumption when I first started following the guidelines. And yet, not only did I know that the science supported that cutting back was better for my brain, cheese-laden dishes started to feel too heavy for my palate and my stomach. Over time, I found that by eating less cheese, I had more room brain-healthy swaps, like nut-rich milks and creams. I realized that cheese tended to mute other delicious ingredients like vegetables and whole grains, so in the end it gave me room to amp up the flavors in my cooking.
Cashew ricotta is a delicious addition to manicotti
It was only a matter of time before I set about recreating the manicotti of my youth. I dare say I love it even more. I solved the cheese quandary by subbing in cashew milk ricotta (which you can find in most grocery stores) for the ricotta cheese. Because this ricotta is made from nuts, it shifts the fat profile of the dish to mostly monounsaturated fats, the type recommended we consume most for better brain health. It’s just as creamy as whole milk ricotta, and its subtle nutty flavor mellows out the other robust, garlicky ingredients.
Chickpea flour makes a nutty and flavorful crepe
Old-school manicotti crepes (which contain the filling) are made of white flour, butter, eggs, milk, and cheese. So, in my brain-healthy version, I swapped in classic Italian farinata (aka socca, or chickpea crepes) made with chickpea flour, egg, olive oil, and water. For the filling, besides subbing in cashew ricotta stands for the dairy kind, I doubled down on vegetables, combining both mushrooms and Swiss chard.
Okay, so it’s not entirely dairy-free. I did add a few spoonfuls of shredded Parmesan to the batter, which adds richness and gorgeous lacy edges to the farinata, and I also give you the option of sprinkling more over the top. But if you want to be totally cheese-free, leave it out. Even a tiny amount of Parmesan packs in tons of cheese flavor, less than an ounce per serving, leaving room for a little more cheese throughout the week. A good compromise, in my mind.
Nonna’s marinara plus a more streamlined version
I didn’t change everything up from my nonna’s classic recipe. Her marinara was too good to change. She hand-crushed cans of imported San Marzano tomatoes until pulpy, discarding any tough cores or stems. This is an added step, not to mention one that splatters every corner of your kitchen with tomato. Instead, I offer a streamlined version by using crushed canned tomatoes instead.
Although this manicotti dish takes a little time to put together, I promise the results will be worth it. You can set future you up for a ready-to-go meal later by doubling the recipe and stashing one pan in the freezer.
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- ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
- 2 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
- 3 small garlic cloves minced
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- ½ teaspoon dried oregano
- 6 fresh basil leaves torn
- 1 cups water
- 1 large egg
- 1 ¾ cups chickpea flour
- 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil plus more for cooking the socca
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese freshly grated
- 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1 pound small mushrooms, such as cremini or white button sliced ¼-inch thick, about 4 cups
- ¾ teaspoon kosher salt
- 3 small garlic cloves minced
- 1 bunch Swiss chard (about ¾ lb.) stems sliced ¼-inch thick, leaves slices ½-inch thick
- ⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
- 2 cups store-bought cashew or almond ricotta
- ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese optional
- Handful fresh basil leaves torn
Ingredients
For the marinara:
For the Socca (chickpea crepes):
For the Filling:
To Top:
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- Make the Marinara: Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the crushed tomatoes and garlic. Stir constantly for 2 minutes. Add the oregano and bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Place a lid ajar on the pot and continue to cook, stirring every 15 minutes, until the sauce is smooth, about 1 hour. Add the torn basil leaves. Taste; add more salt if you like.
- While the sauce simmers, make the Socca. Using a blender or a large bowl and whisk, combine the water, egg, chickpea flour, oil, and salt until smooth. Stir in the grated Parmesan. Set aside for about 10 minutes to allow the batter to thicken.
- Heat a 9-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add a few drops of oil and ⅓ cup of the batter. Swirl the pan so that the socca is almost as large as the pan. After about 2 minutes, the socca should be set in the middle and crispy at the edges. Carefully slip a flexible spatula under one side of the socca and loosen it from the pan. Slide it onto a flat surface, such as your countertop or a cutting board. If the socca tears a little, you can still use it. Repeat until you have about about 10 socca.
- Make the filling: Preheat your oven to 400ºF. Heat one tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add half the mushrooms and a pinch of salt. Spread the mushrooms out so they are mostly in a single layer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and brown on the edges, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a medium bowl. Repeat with the rest of the mushrooms.
- Using the same skillet, add another tablespoon of olive oil. Add the chard stems, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and sauté until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook over low heat, stirring continuously for 1 minute. Add the greens and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the mushrooms.
- Use a fork to break up the ricotta and season it with the red pepper flakes and ¼ teaspoon of salt. Gently fold in the chard and mushrooms until combined.
- To assemble the manicotti: Pour two cups of marinara sauce on the bottom of a ceramic or glass 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Place a socca on a cutting board and spoon ¼ cup of the filling onto one end. Roll up like a cigar and place seam side down on the baking dish. Repeat until all the manicotti have been made. Arrange the manicotti so there is a tiny bit of space between each and pour 2 more cups of sauce on top. Smooth over the top, cover with foil, and bake for 45 minutes, until the manicotti are brown around the edges and the filling is bubbling and spilling out the ends.
- Let rest for about 15 minutes. Just before serving, top with fresh basil leaves and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, if using.
To save time, instead of making marinara from scratch, use a good brand from the grocery store. I like Rao's Sensitive Formula Marinara — great flavor, and it's low in sodium and has no added sugar.
Instead of Swiss chard, use another sturdy leafy green, such as kale, collard, or spinach.
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